BRITISH SEA

An ILLUSTRATED
HANDBOOK of the
EDIBLE FISHES of
the BRITISH ISLES

L..

withinbank

OOO Society of Edinburgh I

S 94

c - 2 E. Bullen.

i

PRICE

BRITISH SEA FISH

An Illustrated Handbook

of the Edible Sea Fishes

of the British Isles .

CD

m

a
m
a

By

HAROLD SWITHINBANK

Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh
And

G. E. BULLEN

LONDON :

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD.

i. ? '

Preface.

The object of this essentially elementary handbook is
to provide illustrations and brief descriptions of the several
kinds of marine fishes which are marketed in this country
in appreciable quantity as articles of commerce, and in a
minor degree to give an added interest to those perchance
inexperienced sea-fishermen who wish to be able to
recoo-nise at a glance the various forms of fish which come
under their notice, or fall victims to their bait whilst
eno-ao-ed in a form of sport clear to the heart of every Briton
who takes pleasure in the sea and can endure its varying
moods. The work has been founded largely upon the lines
of others which have appeared of recent years in those
maritime countries of Europe in which fish forms an all-
important article of diet, and is to be regarded as in no way
scientific.

It is a well-known fact thai although the supply of certain
s/uv/V\ of fish with which almost everyone is familiar, as
for example Plaice, Turbot, Haddock, Halibut, and Brill,
has been for years past steadily on the decline, yet there
has been a corresponding increase in the total iinanlily of
fish landed in the British Isles during the same period.
An examination of the statistics of the Board of Agriculture
and Fisheries not only makes this clear, but shows further
that with the decrease in supply of those species of better-
known edible qualities, there has been an undoubted
increase in the supply of others less secure in public favour,
and that these have been marketed with greater frequency
and in larger quantities.

There can, however, be but little doubt that while this
condition has been slowly but surely demonstrating itself
in the stock-in-trade of the ordinary fishmonger, the public-
mind has undergone but little or no change so far as the
selection of what are technically known as "wet fish" is
concerned. This is especially noticeable in inland towns,
where the occasional supplies of comparatively unknown
but excellent fish for food purposes command practically

39976

IV

no sale owing to the fact that public appreciation is lacking,
and that the vendor is unable to convince his customers of
the good quality of his wares. In such localities it is no
uncommon occurrence to see such valuable species as Red
and Grey Mullet, John Dorv, Grey Gurnard, and others,
offered at a price which can be but slightly above the cost
entailed in bringing them to market.

Another point which may, to a certain degree, account
for such conservatism of taste lies in the fact that certain
varieties of fish suffer less at the hands of a poor cook than
others, and the customer naturally looks with favour upon
those which in process of cooking are not rendered unpala-
table in the kitchen of the ordinary middle-class household.
The proper preparation of fish for the table undoubtedly
requires the exercise of a certain amount of skill, but it is
an art easily acquired, and once mastered it can render
even what are regarded as inferior varieties both whole-
some and palatable. The great demand and almo;-t
universal advance in price generallv which has occurred
within the last few years is to be largely accounted for
by the growing popularity of fish as an article of diet
amongst the working classes, as indicated by the material
increase of the fried-lish trade a trade which fulfils a
doubly utilitarian object in not only providing wholesome
food at a modest cost to the masses, but also in finding an
outlet for certain kinds of fish which, owing solely to
popular prejudice, were until recently a drug upon the
market.

But there is every prospect that in years to come many
of the species which are now so utilised will of necessity
form part of the usual stock of the ordinary fishmonger,
and it is with a view to familiarising the reader with the
appearance of such varieties, in addition to those better
known, and giving as far as possible a just appreciation of
their edible dualities, that the present small volume has
been compiled.

The illustrations have in all cases been reproduced from
photographs of the actual fish.

Introduction.

METHODS OF COMMERCIAL FISHERY.

From a general standpoint all marketable sea fishes are
regarded as belonging- to one or the other of two classes,
viz.: Pelagic and Demersal. Broadly speaking Pelagic-
fishes are those that live at various depths, whereas
Demersal fishes spend the greater portion of their lives on
the sea bed.

The pelagic species with \\hich \ve have to deal are not
numerous, but they comprise the Herring, Mackerel,
Sprat, and Pilchard, all of which are of the highest com-
mercial importance. These are often described as "drift-
fishes" on account of the fact that for a certain period of
the year they frequent the drift, or upper strata of the sea,
feeding largely upon the minute animal and vegetable
life to be found in such open water. Until of comparatively
recent years, the term "irawl fish " was applied solely to
demersal fishes, but nowadays, notably in the North Sea,
comparatively large numbers of Herring and Mackerel
arealso caught on the bottom by means of the trawl. During
the period of their inshore migration, however, pelagic
fishes are chiefly caught in " drift-nets," i.e., nets
suspended vertically from the surface of the water, in
which the fish become enmeshed behind the gill-covers in
swimming against the current, by means of ''seines,"
i.e., nets operated in such a way as to enclose an observed
shoal, and by other less familiar methods.

Demersal fishes, on the other hand, arc- caught com-
mercially almost entirely in two distinct ways, namely
trawling and long-lining. The trawl varies in size and
method of construction largely in accordance with the
type of vessel from which it is tised, but in general
principle it consists of a bag of netting, fitted with bridles
which enable the whole to be towed over the bottom bv
means of a single rope. The chief difference in construc-
tion lies in the method adopted for keeping the mouth open
tinder water. The smaller sailing craft are generallv
supplied with a "beam-trawl," in which this is effected bv

VI

a beam of certain length supported on a pair of runners
which glide over the sea bed. The "otter trawl," which
has a considerably greater span, is generally carried by
steam trawlers, and in this type of gear the mouth of the
trawl is opened by the action of a pair of solid runners
(otter boards), which are attached to the bridles in such a
way that their resistance to the water causes a continuous
outward strain on the otherwise collapsible mouth.

It is obvious that a trawl can only be used on ground that
is comparatively free of rocks, etc., and in consequence
the greater proportion of the trawlers' catch consists of
certain kinds of demersal fishes which habitually frequent
the sand and shingle. Of these the most notable are

i^

Haddock, Whiting, Soles, Plaice, Turbot, Brill, Cod,
Hake, Ling, Cattish, and others, although certain of these
species have a liking also for rocky ground, and are taken
in such areas by the line fishermen.

Generally speaking, the long-liners, i.e., vessels carrying
lines baited with a large number of hooks, work in deeper
water than do the trawlers, and secure catches of larger
rish, but limited to a small number of species, e.g., Cod,
Ling, Tusk, Conger, Halibut, Skates and Rays, &c.

But whereas long-lining may be carried out at almost
any reasonable depth, the trawlers seldom work" in water
beyond 1 10 fathoms. The usual fishing grounds frequented
by British vessels are determined largely by this fact, since
the extensive use of steam nowadays renders distance a
matter of minor importance in comparison with that of
securing profitable catches.

FISHING GROUNDS.

For statistical purposes the fishing grounds are divided
up into eighteen areas, covering a total extent of 678,900
square miles. These include the waters of the White Sea,
Iceland, West of Norway, the Faroes, Rockall Bank, Baltic
Sea, North Sea, English Channel, Irish Sea, and the
adjacent waters, parts of the Bay of Biscay, and down to
the loo-fathom line off the coasts of Spain, Portugal, and
Morocco.

The quantity of fish landed annually at the Fast Coast
ports has amounted of recent years to roughly 7 'gths of
the entire supply, and a very large proportion of this is
derived from the North Sea itself.

Vll

In each of the several fishing areas or regions there are,
generally speaking', certain predominant species which
remain fairly constant, whilst fluctuating in comparative
abundance in successive years. Thus in the North Sea
the most important demersal fishes are Haddock", Cod,
Whiting, and Plaice; in the more open waters of the
Atlantic, off Iceland, the Faroes, and Rockall, Coalfish
and Catfish ; whilst in the White Sea by far the most
important species is Plaice, although both Haddock and
Cod are well in evidence. From the West Coasts of Scot-
land and Ireland, i.e., roughly between latitudes 56 and
^5, to the Moroccan Coast, the principal catch (-(insists
of I lake, which at the most southern area has amounted
of recent years to as much as 75 per cent, of the total
(jtiantity of fish taken in the trawl. As regards the English
Channel, the western half affords the most profitable
fishing grounds, but of recent years there has been virtually
a plague of Dogfish, the several species described under
this name constituting the predominant feature, and
amounting to as much as 20 per cent, of the entire catch,
which in this area is otherwise rather varied.

GROWTH OF THE FISHERIES.

The more extensive use of steam vessels for trawling,
long-lining and drifting, the greater advantages derived
from the use in some form or another of cold storage and
increased railway facilities, together with the system
prevalent in certain areas of direct transport from the
fishing fleet to market, are the more important factors
which have conspired to bring about an almost startling
increase in the quantities of wet fish landed in this country
within the last quarter of a century.

The Government statistics clearly show that during this
period the landings have risen by about 90 per cent., but
it is to be regretted that this increase is largely due to the
greater quantity of pelagic fish, notably herring, whilst
the landings of certain demersal fishes of the highest com-
mercial importance show a more or less steady decline.

When it is remembered that the herring fishery derives
its greater importance as forming the subject of an extensive
export trade, it will be seen that from the home consumer's
standpoint this material increase is not a matter of
advantage to this countrv.

Ylll

VALUE OF THE FISHERIES.

For although the total value of the fish (other than shell-
fish) landed in these islands in the year 1913 exceeded,
according to the Government statistics, a sum of
10,000,000, and surpassed the record of any previous
year by a matter of .1,126,000, we gather from the same
source an impression of the steady increase of prices of
the well-known varieties of demersal fishes which meet
with universal demand, a fact which has a bearing upon
the matter discussed in a previous paragraph.

There is a certain interest attached to the record values
of catches made by commercial fishing vessels, and it may
be mentioned that during the European War, in January,
JQI5, a sum nearly approaching ,4,000 was realised upon
.1 catch of Plaice from the White Sea made by a Hull
trawler in three weeks' fishing, a figure unprecedented for
a trawler's catch, but made, of course, during what was
virtually a fish famine.

COMPARATIVE VALUES OF VARIOUS KINDS

OF FISH.

The following table has been compiled from an examina-
tion of the market reports extending over several years.
The numerical factors, however, have no significance so
far as the retail prices of fish are concerned, and are here
used solely for purposes of comparison. Undoubtedly
the most remarkable feature lies in the high value of Soles
in comparison with that of other prime fish. The varieties
of medium and low value appear to commence with
Witches, the cost of these falling far below that of White-
bait, but in the species immediately following it seems
that value cannot be taken altogether as a criterion of

t^

quality. One has necessarily to take into consideration the
abundance or paucity of supply of each individual species,
and it is interesting in this connection to note the compara-
tively low price of Cod and Whiting against that of Hake.
The periodicity of abundant landings in the case of all the
pelagic fishes naturally explains the fact of the low price of
such species as Mackerel, Herring, and Sprat, and anyone
who has noted the profuse supply of the last-named during
its brief season, can fully understand the reason why it
holds the lowest place on the list. It is certainly more
difficult to find cause for the comparatively slight value
of Sea-bream, unless it be due to a certain popular idea
that the species included under the name are of a question-
ably wholesome nature.

Table showing the Comparative Values of the
principal Marine Fishes.

Soles

Turbot

Brill

Red Mullet

Halibut

I.emon Soles

Grey Mullet

Whitebait

Witches

Plaice

John Dory

Hake

Dabs

Conger

Megrims

Haddock

Flounders

Skate

I.atchtts

Cod ..

Whiting

Pollack

Mackerel ..

Ling

Tusk

Catfish

Herring

Pilchard

Dogfish

Gurnards

Coalfish

Bream

Sprats

55 6O 65 7O 75 8O 85 9O 95 IOO IO5 I IO 115 12O 128 13O 135

Table A

15 17i 20 224 25 27t 3O 324 35 374 4O 42 45 47* 5O 32t 55

Table B

1254S67891O11 12 t& 14- 15

Table C

NOTE : In the examination of the above it should be noted that three different
series of numerals, given as an indication of value, are employed in the Tables
marked A, B and G. If the significance of this fact be borne in mind the two lower
Tables may be read in continuity to the upper one.

X

Table showing the average quantity ot each kind of fish
landed annually in England and Wales during the period
1906-1913.

Cwts.

Herrings .............................. 4,722,472

Haddocks ........................... 2,264,879

^ "d ...................... 2,249,909

Plaice ................................. 906,991

Hake 736,235

Skates and Rays ...... 375<953

Mackerel 358,788

Whiting ............ 327,850

Coalfish ............... 277,935

208,649

Halibut 155,772

Dabs 106,870

Gurnards 99,700

Megrims 91,998

Pilchards 86,693

Catfish 82,601

Bream 79,126

S les 64,923

Sprats ... 64,371

lurbot 61,643

Lemon Soles 53,989

Conger Eels 50,335

Monks (Anglers) 36,524

Dogfish 34,170

Witches 33,661

Tusk 21,865

" ack 19,877

19,722

Whitebait 6,618

Flounders 6,073

Latchets 2i99 o

Dory

Grey Mullet

Red Mullet

431

XI

Illustrations.

Cod
l!a<
Wh
Wh
Co<
Pol

T

Tusk
Hake

I'AGE

I'AdE

I

Angler

'7

lock

Halibut

18

1'urbot

Kj

mg 3

Brill

JO

[ing Pout -i

Sole

21

livli 5

Lemon Sole

. 2~>

ick, Lvthe 6

Plaice

2 3

; 7

Flounder

24

^ 7

Dab

2^

e 8

Witch

26

ish 9

Megrim

27

_MT 10

1 1 erring

28

Mullet ii

Pilchard

2 9

Mullet 12

Sprat

30

nards 13

Mackerel

31

i Dorv 14

Smelt

3^

\vav Haddock 15

Dog Fish

33

Bream 16

Skates and Rays

34

Dorsal

Gill-covp-

Cmidal

Anal

- Barbel

Pectoral ^^
Lateral Line. Ventral

No. 1. COD.

GuJns morrhua, Linnaeus.

Also occasionally Gail us nara^a. Koelreuter, and Gail us saula,
Lepech, from Northern waters.

Usual extreme length : 4.^ to 5 feet. Chiefly marketed at about
.1 fet-'t.

Description: Body heavily built in the fore part and tapering
fairly abruptly to the tail ; first anal fin commencing beneath
the fourth or fifth ray of the second dorsal ; a lon<^ fleshy barbel
situated on the lower jaw. Coloration greenish-yellow or olive,
with numerous dark spots, shading off to impure white below;
lateral line white and fairly conspicuous.

The Cod spawns from January to June; its food consists
of crustaceans, molluscs and voting fish.

Range: From the North of Norway and Iceland to the Bay
of Biscay, and from Greenland to New York.

Remarks: The Cod, the young of which is known as the Codling, is
one of the most important food-fishes of Europe and North America in
the fresh state, whereas in a salted or dried condition it is extensively
marketed in various other parts of the world. The chief fishery is car-
ried on by steam trawlers and long-liners off Newfoundland and Iceland,
in the North Sea. to the West and North of Scotland, and off the West
< '< iast of Norway.

Extensive use is made of the liver for the extraction of medicinal oil.
but this commoditv is now in far less demand than in former years.
Smoked Cod's roe is esteemed by manv as a delicacy, and large quantities
of Codling are prepared and sold as " Smoked Haddock."

In a fresh state the Cod almost invariably forms part of the ordinary
stock-in-trade of the fishmonger; it is a fish eminently suitable for
boiling in large pieces, for frying in cutlets and fillets, or when of small
size (Codling), baking entire with sf:iM>ni:ig.

\'.</V. As it is necessary, for purposes of description, to refer to certain
details of the external characteristics of fishes in general, the above illu--
tration has been labelled with a view to indicating the position of such
features in the case of the Cod. The modification, development, or lack
of the several fins, etc., may be traced in all the species described in this
volume, with the exception of the Dogfish, Skates, and Rays, in which
a somewhat different form of structure is present

No. 2. HADDOCK,

Ciaihis aeglifinus, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : 25 inches, but examples have been
recorded measuring- 3 feet.

Description: Body more slender in build than that of the Cod,
the lower jaw not so prominent; barbel of small size; first anal
fin commencing- almost on a level with the second dorsal.
Coloration on the back and sides bronze green, shading- off to
an impure white ; usually a conspicuous black blotch below
the middle of the first dorsal fin ; lateral line black. The
Haddock spawns in the early months of the year ; its food
consists of molluscs, crustaceans, sea urchins, worms, etc.

Range: From the North of Scandinavia and Russia to the
Bay of Biscay. The Haddock is very abundant in the northern
part of the North Sea, on the West Coast of Scotland, and
around Iceland, but is not common in the English Channel.

Remarks: --Of the Cod family, the Haddock is second only to the
Cod in commercial importance, its market value being higher than that
of its larger ally. In the trade three distinct categories of size are
generally recognised " Large " about 2lbs. to 3^1bs. in weight,
: Medium " about i^lbs., and "Small" or "Chat Haddocks" fib. or
less. The highest proportion of large fish comes from Iceland, in which
the weight distinction ranges somewhat higher, but the North Sea is
responsible for the heaviest landings. The Haddock in a " wet " state
is a table fish of excellent quality, but from the commercial standpoint
the species is of greater importance as forming one of the staple products
of the dried fish trade, smoked haddock being in universal demand.

No. 3. WHITING.

(! ail us merlangus, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : 18 inches.
Description :

Body comparatively slender in build ; first anal
fin commencing" on a level with the middle of the first dorsal ;
lower jaw shorter than the upper, and bearing" no barbel.
Coloration greyish yellow, with yellow stripes along- the silvery
sides ; a shoulder spot situated above and around the base of
the pectoral fin.

The Whiting- spawns from March to May ; its food consists
chiefly of small fishes, crustaceans, etc.

Remarks: The Whiting is rather more coastal in its distribution than
either the Cod or Haddock. As a food fish- it is remarkable for its
delicate flavour, on that account being invaluable for the diet of invalids.
Of the total quantity of Whiting landed in Britain, nearly three-quarters
are derived from the North Sea. In common with the two preceding
species, this fish is often smoked and retailed as " Haddock."

No. 4. WHITING POUT, POUTING.

Gcidus hisciis, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length :-- 16 inches.

Description : Smaller than the Hacklork, and proportionately
much deeper in the body. Coloration dark brown above,
shading- off to impure white on the lower parts ; broad vertical
bands at intervals down the Hanks.

Range: Commonly distributed around Britain, very abundant
in the English Channel, frequenting- coastal waters.

Remarks: Although well known to the sea angler, the Pout is not
marketed in any appreciable quantity in this country, but occasional
examples are found amongst consignments of Whiting, to which species,
both as regards flavour and quality, it very nearly approximates.

A smaller species, the Poor Cod, or Power Gadns minulus, Linnaeus,
{see figure) which somewhat resembles the Pout, but lacks the vertical
bands, is sometimes met with amongst lots of " mixed fish."

No. 5. COALFISH, GREEN COD, *ROCK
SALMON, SAITHE.

Gudns vii'cns, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : 3 to 4 feet.

Description : Body of moderately robust proportions, gently
tapering- to the tail ; lower jaw slightly longer than the upper,
and bearing a barbel of small size; first anal fin commencing
below the last few rays of the first dorsal. Coloration above,
very dark greenish blue, almost black, shading off to impure
white on the flanks and lower parts ; lateral line white and fairly
distinct.

The Coalfish spawns from January to April ; its food consists
of molluscs, crustaceans, and other fishes.

Range: From the North of Europe to the Mediterranean; in
British seas the species is most abundant off the Scottish coasts.

Remarks: The quantity of Coalfish marketed annually has shown a
material increase of recent years, but the value has remained fairly
constant. It is a fish of rather poor flavour and quality, and on that
account not frequently to be met with at the ordinary fishmonger's in a
wet state, but is one of those species largely used by the frying trade,
and may often be seen on fish stalls in poor localities. The flesh is
liable to somewhat rapid deterioration. Sea anglers in Scottish waters
cannot fail to be struck by the enormous shoals of young Coalfish
(Cuddies, Podleys, etc.) to be met with in estuaries, harbours, and other
inshore waters, where they are fished for, by young and old, by means
of a primitive white fly attached by a short line to a long cane or other
thin pole.

The term " Rock Salmon " is also applied to the Catfish.

No. 6 POLLACK, LYTHE, etc.

Gadus pollachins, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : 3 feet.

Description: Somewhat similar to the Coalfish, but readily
distinguishable from that species by the following- character-
istics : lower jaw more protruding; the body proportionately
deeper in comparison with length ; no barbel ; coloration dis-
tinctly greenish, instead of blue-black or black, with bronze
reflections on the sides ; lateral line not so conspicuous as in
the Coalfish.

The Pollack spawns from March to June; its food consists
largely of other fishes in the case of the adult, the young
subsisting chiefly on small crustaceans, molluscs, marine
worms, etc.

Range: From Scandinavia to the Mediterranean. Although
the Pollack occurs everywhere around the British Isles, it
appears to be the southern equivalent of the Coalfish, being
found most commonly off the coasts of Devon and Cornwall.

Remarks: -At least forty local names are known for this species, and
in the North of Scotland and off the Irish Coast it is often confused
with the Coalfish. The nuantity of Pollack landed by commercial fishing
vessels is inconsiderable in comparison with that of Coalfish, but the
market value is much higher. The Pollack is essentially a sea-angler's
fish, affording good sport to the line fisherman in the vicinity of weed-
covered rocks. The flesh, moreover, both in quality and flavour, is far
superior to that of the Coalfish, but equally liatle to rapid deterioration.
It is on this account seldom sold retail outside the ports of landing.
When quite fresh from the sea and fried in fillets, or cut into small
pieces and served as "mock whitebait," it is an excellent table fish.

No. 7. LING.

Moh'ii vitlguris, Fleming.

Usual extreme length 1 4 to 6 feet.

Description: Body attenuated, invested in a tough skin bearing
small scales; head smaller in proportion to the body than that
of the Hake ; several large teeth in the lower jaw and palate ;
barbel of fair length ; first dorsal fin short and rounded, followed
by a second continuous to within a short distance from the tail;
anal fin commencing below the seventh or eighth ray of the
second dorsal. Coloration grey above, shading off to impure
white on the lower parts, occasional specimens showing large
black spots ; dorsal, caudal, and ventral fins, edged with white.

The Ling spawns from March to June ; it preys almost entirely
upon other smaller fishes.

Range: From the White Sea and Newfoundland to the Bay
of Biscay. The species is more abundant to the north of Britain.

Remarks: A food fish of very fair edible quality, excellent when fried
in cutlets, and very suitable for salting or pickling.

No. 8. TUSK, TORSK, CATFISH, MOONFISH.

Brosmius brosinc, Ascanius.

Usual extreme length : 36 inches, but the majority of specimens
seldom exceed half this length.

Description: Body almost circular in section, and wholly
invested, including the fins, with a thick and tough skin; the
single dorsal fin continuous to the base of the tail, the anal being
similar in this respect, and commencing below the 35th or 36th
ray of the dorsal ; scales of small size, and deeply imbedded in
the skin ; a barbel present in the lower jaw. Coloration above,
grey suffused with yellow, this lighter shade being more
pronounced on the margins of the fins.

The Tusk spawns from April to June ; its food consists of
crustaceans and small fish.

^ Range: -From the White Sea to the Northern area of the North
Sea. The species is fairly abundant off the Shetlands and
Faroes, its distribution extending to fairly deep water.

Remarks: --In quality and flavour the Tusk is very similar to the
Ling, the market value being oracticalJv the same. About 20,000 cwts.
are marketed annually.

No. 9. HAKE.

Merlucchts vulgaris, Fleming-.

Usual extreme length : -4 feet, but the majority of examples
marketed seldom exceed 3 feet.

Description : Body somewhat attenuated; head and mouth of
fair size, the jaws armed with double rows of sharp, pointed
teeth, others occurring- on the palate ; first dorsal fin short and
almost triang-ular, followed by a continuous second dorsal
extending- to a short distance from the tail ; anal fin commencing-
below the third ray of the second dorsal. Coloration dark
cinereous grey above, lightening- on the sides and belly ; interior
of the mouth and g-ill-covers black.

A deep-water and migratory species. The inshore movements
of the Hake are very largly determined by those of its prey,
e.g., pelag-ic fishes such as Herring-, Mackerel, Pilchard, etc.
The spawning- period extends from March to June.

Range: From Norway to the Canary Islands, and throug-hout
the Mediterranean. The species is more abundant on the South-
West and extreme West of Britain than in the enclosed waters
of the Irish Sea and Southern North Sea.

Remarks: The Hake is a table fish of excellent medium quality,
the flesh being firm and not liable to rapid deterioration. One of the best
methods of cookery is by frying in cutlets. Hake is also excellent for
the preparation of fish cakes, and for pickling in spiced vinegar.

No. 10. CATFISH, SEA WOLF, ROCK

SALMON.

hicii:; lupus, Linna?us.

Usual extreme length : 6 feet.

Description: Body somewhat attenuated, invested with a
tough skin ; scales rudimentary ; a continuous dorsal tin extend-
ing- throughout the greater part of the body ; breast fins large
and rounded; ventral fins absent; jaws furnished with long
curved teeth, which project prominently on the lower jaw; two
rows of grinding teeth on either side, three rows on the roof
of the mouth. Coloration bluish grey above, lightening con-
siderably on the flanks and lower parts, a row of dark bars
passing down the back.

f he Catfish spawns in winter. Owing to the possession of such
itn admirable dentition, this fish is able to crush the shells of
such powerfully protected molluscs as the \Yhelk, upon which
amongst other shellfish it very largely feeds.

Range: An essentially Northern fish, occurring from Green-
land to the North Sea, and off the American Coast to Cape
Hatteras.

Remarks: The greatest supply of Catfish comes from Iceland, and
about 160,000 cwts.' are marketed annually in this country. The market
value has shown a material increase within the last few years, the species
now forming part of the usual stock-in-trade of the fishmonger. In
common with the Angler, and certain other species of equally forbidding
appearance, the Catfish is never exposed for sale in an intact condition,
but is prepared by skinning and filleting, and generally sold under
another name.

The flesh is of very fair quality, eminently- suitable for boiling or
trying in cutlets or fillets.

The name " Rock-Salmon," by which the Catfish is usually described
in the retail trade, is also applied to the Coalfish.

10

No. 11. CONGER EEL.

Conger vulgaris, Cuvicr.

Usual extreme length : 8 to 9 feet.

Description:- Eyes and head larger in proportion to the body
than they are in the Common Eel. Dorsal fin commencing- at a
point close behind the pectoral fins, and coalescing- with the
caudal and anal. Gill-openings of large size ; teeth situated so
closely together as to form a cutting edge. There are no scales,
but thei skin is firm and tough. Coloration dark olive brown,
lightening on the flanks and lower parts to an impure white ; in
many specimens taken from sandy ground the general tone is
much lighter ; the margins of the fins are black.

The food of the Conger consists of other fishes, including
smaller individuals of its own kind, squid, cuttlefish, crus-
taceans, etc.

Range: From the coasts of Europe, including the Mediter-
ranean, to sub-tropical seas. Off Britain the species is most
abundant in the English Channel.

Remarks: -From the natural scientific standpoint, the Conger is of
considerable interest, chiefly on account of the remarkable metamor-
phosis which is undergone "by the developmental stages of the young.
The larval form, the so-called " Leptocephalus " a flattened, "trans-
parent creature, quite unlike the adult was at one time regarded as a
distinct species. The flesh is of very fair quality, equally suitable for
boiling or frying in cutlets or fillets." The young'fish may be cooked in
the same way as the Common Eel.

1 I

No. 12. GREY MULLET.

il cupito, Cuvier.
Mngil chclo, Linnaeus (see figure).

Usual extreme length : 3 feet, but the majority seldom exceed
1 8 inches.

Description : The term "Grey Mullet' is applied to two
species of fish, which differ chiefly in the fact that in the one
the lips are thick and in the other thin; otherwise the following-
description of external characters may be attributed to either.
There are two dorsal fins, the first consisting- of four well deve-
loped spinous rays, and the second of one spine and eight or
nine soft rays; the anal comprises eight to ten rays, and there
are a spine and five rays in the ventral fin. The dorsal fins are
comparatively far apart, and the tail is large and slightly forked.
The coloration is silvery grey, darker on the back, interrupted
on the flanks by rows of almost black strokes.

Grey Mullet are gregarious, and feed largely upon vegetable

matter.

Range: The thick lipped species (M. chclo) is of fairly general
occurrence around our coasts, being met with more frequently
to the south of Britain. The other is probably of very similar
range, but is generally considered to be scarcer. Both species
occasionally frequent brackish and even fresh water.

Remarks: The quantity of this excellent table fish landed of recent
years has been steadily on the decline. The fishery is very irregular,
being carried on chiefly by means of seines, shot in close inshore waters.

Although great similarity in flavour undoubtedly exists between the
two species, the Grey Mullet bears no real affinity to the Red Mullet,
which is, zoologically speaking, an entirely different type of fish.

The best method of cookery consists in baking the entire fish, with
seasoning, in an envelope of greased paper.

12

No. 13. RED MULLET.

Mullns Inii'hittns, Linnaeus.
Mulliis siinnnlclns, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : 15 inches.

Description : The term " Red Mullet " is applied to two species
of fish, which differ too slightly to be distinguished in the
market. In both the body is rounded and covered with large
scales; the two dorsal fins are fairly short, the first weakly
spinous and the second soft ; the anal fin commences imme-
diately below the second dorsal. The head is of comparatively
large 'size, the eyes conspicuous, and the mouth situated on the
under surface. The lower jaw is furnished with a long stiff
barbel, which can be erected at will, and assists the fish in its
search after food on the bottom, this consisting of small
crustaceans, worms, etc. The coloration is very pleasing, con-
sisting in M. sunnuh'tus of varying shades of red, interspersed
with three to five yellow streaks passing down the sides. The
second species may be distinguished from its larger ally by the
absence of these bands.

The Red Mullet spawns during the summer.

Range: From Norway to Teneriffe, and throughout the Medi-
terranean. The Reel Mullet is nowhere abundant in British
seas, but is chiefly met with off the South and "West coasts.

Remarks: -The Red Mullet has been held in high esteem as a food fish
certainly from Roman times, numerous references occurring in classical
authors of the sale of large examples at fabulous prices.

Of recent years the quantity marketed in this country has been very
slight, a matter of a few hundred cwts.

The Red Mullet possesses a characteristic flavour which gives it a
unique position amongst edible fishes ; it is popularly known as the
" Woodcock of the Sea," on account of the usual method of cookery,
which consists in baking the fish entire without removing the entrails.

In the market, the real beaiity of this elegant species cannot be
appreciated, owing to the inhumane practice prevalent among fishermen
of de-scaling the fish alive in order to fix the characteristic colour.

\

No. 14. GURNARDS or GURNETS.

Tub, or Latchet, Triglu Jiirumla, Bloch (see figure).

Piper, T right Ivru, Linnaeus.

Grey Gurnard, Triglu gnnutrJus, Linnaeus.

Red Gurnard, Triglu cncidns, Linnaeus.

Streaked Gurnard, Triglu lincutu. Linnaeus.

Long-finned Gurnard, Trigla obscnnt, Linnaeus.
Usual extreme length : 24 to Jb inches for the first three species,
12 to 18 for the others.

Description: Despite numerous specific differences, all the
Gurnards agree in the following characteristics : Bones of the
head devoid of soft skin, and developed to form a hard
integument ; strong spines present on the gill-covers ; three rays
of the breast fins separated, forming finger-like appendages
which assist the fish in their search after food; first dorsal fin
supported on spines, the upper ends of which project; second
dorsal, and anal, composed of soft rays. The coloration of all
the species, with the exception of the Grey Gurnard, is red or
reddish brown, lightening off to pure white on the underparts.
The breast fins of the Latchet are very beautiful, being of a
brilliant sapphire blue, speckled with black. All the Gurnards
have a curious habit of emitting a grunting sound when removed
from the water.

The food consists largely of crustaceans, together with occa-
sional small fish, molluscs, etc.

Range: The Latchet, Grey and Red Gurnards, with certain
limitations, occur from Norway to the Mediterranean, being
met with more abundantly to the South of these islands. The
Grey Gurnard is the most northern in distribution, occurring
fairly abundantly in the North Sea. The other species
enumerated are almost exclusively southern.

Remarks: In the market the term "Gurnard" is generally applied
to the Grey variety, thoueh other species are often included. Latchets are
separately distinguished, their value being nearly twice as high as that
of the former. By many the Grey Gurnard is esteemed above all others.
Despite their comparatively low price, all the species are of very fair
quality, but they are fish more suitable for frying or baking than for
boiling.

No. 15. JOHN DORY, DORY.

Zeus f uber, Linnaeus.
Usual extreme length : 20 inches.

Description: -Body considerably compressed on the sides; head
and mouth of large size, the latter being- capable of much
protrusion when open ; rows of spines along- the bases of the
dorsal, and second anal fins, ten spinous rays in the first portion
of the dorsal fin, twenty-two or twenty-three soft rays in the
hinder part; the anal fin divided into two distinct sections, the
first consisting of four spines, and the second of twenty-one to
twenty-three soft rays. Filaments occur at the tips of the
dorsal spines, and the ventral fins are of considerable length.
The coloration in life is yellowish grey, with wavy bands of a
lighter shade, and a conspicuous black spot, edged with yellow,
on the centre of each side.

The Dory spawns from the end of May to August; its food
consists chiefly of living fishes, such as sand-smelts, rocklings.
etc. These are stalked in the most leisurely fashion by the
Dory, which relies solely upon its slender anterior outline as
a means of approaching to a convenient striking' distance of its
prey without being observed.

Range: From the coast of Norway to Madeira, and through-
out the Mediterranean. In British waters, the Dory is chiefly
to be met with in the English Channel and Bristol Channel;
in the North Sea the species is comparatively rare.

Remarks: The Dory is a table fish of excellent quality, commanding
a fairly high price in the London market. Curiously enough, however,
a certain prejudice exists against the species, due to the fact of its some-
what grotesque appearance. The popular name "John Dory' is
derived from the French words jaiuie doree (golden yellow), in reference
to the colour.

Like many another fish possessing little depth of flesh, the present
species is not suitable for boiling, but is excellent for frying or baking
in the method described for Grey Mullet.

>^

No. 16. NORWAY HADDOCK, BERGYLT.

Sebastes norvegicus, Ascanius.

Usual extreme length : 4 feet, but the majority of examples
marketed seldom exceed half this measurement

Description: Body somewhat stout in build; head massive, and
spiny in the region of the gill-covers. Dorsal fin consisting of
fifteen strong" spinous rays, and the same number of soft ones;
the anal of three spines and eight or nine other rays. The lower
jaw extending beyond the upper, and bearing a protuberant
knob at its extremity. Coloration bright red, shading to pink
on the flanks and lower parts.

The Norway Haddock is viviparous, producing its young
alive; its food consists chiefly of animal matter.

Range: This is an essentially Northern fish, its distribution
extending from Spitzbergen to the South-West coast of Norway.
In English waters the species is comparatively rare.

Remarks: The Norway Haddock has been included in the present
volume largely on account of the fact that of recent years increasing
numbers appear to be marketed in Britain by vessels fishing in Northern
waters. At present the species is but little known, but it is undoubtedly
one of excellent quality -and flavour. In the northern Continental markets,
however, it meets with a readv sale. A good method of cookery consists
in baking the fish entire with seasoning.

i6

No. 17. SEA BREAM.

Pagcllns centrodontus, Delaroche (sec figure).
Cantharus lineatus, Montagu.
And certain other species.
Usual extreme length : About 16 inches for both species.

Description: The term " Sea Bream " is used in the market to
describe a number of various fishes belonging to the genera
Pagellus, Cantharus, Pagrus, Sebastes, etc., but the species
mentioned above are those chiefly to be met with in the stock
of the ordinary fishmonger.

Both agree in the following characteristics : Body deep and
plump, covered with large scales ; head and eye of large size ;
well developed dorsal and anal fins, the fore part of each
supported on powerful spines ; canine teeth present in the jaws
of Cantharus, absent in Pagellus.

The Common Sea Bream (Pagellus centrodontus) is of an
orange scarlet above, more or less silvery on the flanks and
belly, and has a large black spot on the shoulder. The reddish
tone is not developed until the fish approaches maturity. On
the South Coast the young are known as " Chad."

The food consists of various marine animals, and seaweed.

The Black Sea Bream (Cantharus lineatus) exhibits a charming
livery of " argent and sable," with yellowish reflections.

Range: The Common Sea Bream occurs from Norway to the
Mediterranean, and is very abundant in the English Channel.
The distribution of the second species is similar, but in British
v/aters it is nowhere so common. Bream approach the coastal
waters only during the summer, retiring to greater depths on
the approach of winter.

Remarks: Although exhibiting certain characteristics which would
appear to mark them as being food-fishes of high edible quality, e.g.,
firmness of flesh and excellent flavour, Sea Bream are held in but little
esteem, and in the market their value ranges extremely low. This fact
is somewhat difficult to account for, but it may be stated that many people
consider these fish to be unwholesome. It is known that their food some-
times consists very largely of sea-weeds, but in the absence of any scientific
investigation on the matter it is impossible to say whether, as in the
case of certain tropical fishes, their flesh acquires at times a slightly
poisonous character from the nature of the food.

No. 18. ANGLER, MONK, FROGFISH,
SILVER SALMON.

Lophins piscatorius, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length: 5 to 6 feet, chiefly marketed at 2 to 3
feet.

Description: Body short and rapidly tapering- to the tail; head
massive, occupying- about one-third of the entire length ; mouth
very wide, the lower jaw longer than the upper, each jaw being-
furnished with two rows of teeth directed backwards ; first
dorsal fin consisting of six separated spines, the first situated on
the snout and terminating in a conspicuous flap of membrane
constituting the " angle " ; the rest of the fins invested, for the
greater part, in the tough flabby integument which covers the
body ; eyes of small size ; fringed lappets projecting from the
skin all round the margin of the body and head ; the whole of
the fish compressed from above and below. Coloration above,
grey, covered with a fine network of dark brown, pure white
below.

The Angler spawns from June to August, the ova being
deposited in large floating sheets ; its food consists of small
fishes, which are captured by means of the " angle "' already
referred to. This feature of the fish's structure, strictly speak-
ing, belies its name, being- in actual fact something in the
nature of a sensory organ, which when touched by any object,
living or otherwise, causes the fish to snap upward with unerring-
aim at a point immediately in advance of the tentacle.

Range: From the Shetlands to the Mediterranean, and
from Newfoundland to Cape Hatteras. The species is fairlv
abundant everywhere around the British coasts.

Remarks: -The name " Monk." which is chiefly employed at Grimsby,
strictly applies to another fish (RJiina sqi/alina. Linnaeus), but has
probably been adopted as appearing more euphonious than Frogfish,
Fishing-Frog, or Sea Devil. The portions marketed consist of the

i8

two broad fillets from the sides of the body. The value has shown
a marked increase within the last few years, this being one of those
species of fish eminent!} 7 suitable for the frying trade. The flavour and
quality are both moderately good, but popular prejudice would doubtless
effectually bar a sale for the species if the Angler were displayed upon
the fishmonger's slab in an uncut condition. From thirty-five to forty
thousand hundredweights are annually landed in this country.

No. 19. HALIBUT, HOLIBUT.

Hippoglossus vulgaris, Fleming.

Usual extreme length: 6 to 7 feet, but examples have been
recorded of 20 feet; the majority marketed seldom average more
than 1 8 inches to 3 feet.

Description: The largest of all flat fishes, approaching- more
nearly in shape to a round fish than any other member of the
same group; eyes situated on the right side of the body; jaws
similar on both sides ; skin smooth, the scales being of small
size ; lateral line fairly conspicuous, exhibiting a sharp upward
turn above the pectoral fin. Coloration dark olive brown, with
marblings of a deeper tone.

The Halibut spawns from February to May ; its food consists
chiefly of other fish and crustaceans.

Range: Essentially a Northern fish, the species does not range
farther South than the English Channel, where it is by no
means plentiful. The largest supply comes from Iceland.

Remarks: The Halibut is a table fish of high quality, suitable for
any form of cookery. The market value has shown a material increase
of recent years, it standing now half as high as that of soles.

Note. The term "Flatfish," in contradistinction to that of "Round-
fish," is used to designate those species in which both eyes are situated
on the one side of the head ; the dorsal and anal fins are consequently
to be seen on opposite margins of the body, when the fish is viewed in
the ordinary way. Rays and Skates, in- which the trunk is compressed
from above and below, although flat fishes in every sense of the word,
are not included in this category. The several species of flatfish are
known as "right-sided" or "left-sided," according to the normal
position of the eyes, but it may be remarked that in their early stages of
life the members of this group have the organs of sight situated on both
sides of the head. The passing of the eye to the other side of the body,
and the assumption of the side-swimming habit, occur while the young
are still of small size.

No. 20. TURBOT.

Rhombus niaxinnis, Linnaeus.
Usual extreme length : 26 inches, the average being- 17 inches.

Description: Body very broad and rounded in outline; eyes on
the left side of the head, which latter is large in proportion to
the rest of the body ; upper and lower jaws equal on both sides ;
scales absent, their place being- taken by numerous scattered
bony tubercles. Dorsal fin commencing in advance of the
upper eye and comprising sixty-one to seventy-two rays, the
anal forty-five to fiftv-six. The coloration in life is admirably

J - **

in keeping with the fish's surroundings, being variously speckled
with different shades of brown which harmonise with the general
tone of the sea-bed, but this characteristic departs with life, and
fish seen exposed for sale are generally dark brown, with
inconspicuous mottling.

The Turbot spawns from April to August ; its food consists
largely of other fishes.

Range: Essentially a southern fish, the Turbot occurs through-
out the Mediterranean and Black Seas, and northward to the
South of Scandinavia.

Remarks: -This species is a " prime fish " of excellent quality, second
only to the Sole in value and flavour. The greatest quantity marketed
in this country comes from the Southern area of the North Sea, but the
English Channel also supports a profitable fishery. The Turbot forming
the ordinary stock-in-trade of the fishmonger are generally fish of large
or medium size, which are cut and retailed in pieces suitable for boiling
or frying. Small fish from ilb. to i^lbs., known as "Chicken Turbot,"
"Dover Turbot," etc.. are sometimes to be obtained at very moderate
price, and are eminently suitable for frying or grilling entire.

2O

No. 21. BRILL.

KJionibus hevis, Rondelet.

Usual extreme length : 20 inches, but examples have been
recorded measuring- at least six inches more than this.

Description: Somewhat similar to the Turbot, but lacking- the
characteristic bony tubercles, their place being- taken by small
scales. The body, moreover, is not so rounded in outline, and
the fin rays are more numerous, there being seventy-six to
eighty-five in the dorsal, and fifty-three to sixty-three in the
anal. The coloration in life is very similar to that of the Turbot,
but in the dead fish it is uniformly dark above, and white below.
The Brill spawns from March to August; like the Turbot, it
preys almost entirely upon other fish.

Range : Similar to that of the Turbot.

Remarks: Although grouped amongst the " prime fish," this species
falls far below Turbot in market value, the cost being not greatly in
advance of that of Halibut.

In flavour, the Brill is not very inferior to Turbot, but the flesh lacks
that quality of firmness which constitutes one of the chief characteristics
of the latter. About 20,000 cwts. are marketed annually in this country,
this being roughly about one-third the quantity of Turbot. The methods of
cooking are generally similar to those employed for Turbot.

21

No. 22. COMMON SOLE, 'BEST SOLE."

Solca vulgaris, Quensel.

Also occasionally Soldi luscaris, Risso ; S. variegata, Donovan;
and S. azevia, Capello, the latter from Portugal and Teneriffe.

Usual extreme length : 26 inches, the majority marketed not
exceeding 12 inches.

Description: Body narrow and oval in outline; mouth situated
beneath the snout ; eyes on the right side ; dorsal fin commencing
in advance of the upper eye, and comprising 73 to go rays, the
anal 61 to 74 ; pectoral fins of large size, both composed
of 7 rays, the upper fin bearing a black spot at the
outer end. The coloration above is brown or greenish
brown, with darker blotches along the. centre and at the bases
of the fins; the lower surface is pure white, and on this side
there are no scales on the region of the head, their place being-
taken by a number of short soft processes.

The Sole spawns from April to August ; its food consists of
marine worms, starfish, crustaceans, etc.

Range: From the South of Scotland to the Mediterranean ;
the species is fairly abundant in the southern area of the North
Sea, Irish Sea, Bristol Channel, and English Channel.

Remarks: -The Sole is the most costly of the c> prime fish,'" and in the-
trade three distinct categories of size are recognised, their value varying.
The most expensive are fish of medium size; the so-called "Slip-Soles"
are included under the small size, and their cost ranges about one-fifth
less than that of the medium.

The methods of cooking soles are numerous, but it may be mentioned
that in common with Turbot. Brill, and Halibut, the sole loses nothing
of its excellent flavour by boiling, a method of preparation calculated to
render other flatfish almost tasteless. From 65,000 cwts. to 70,000 cwts.
are marketed annually, the heaviest landings coming from the North Sen.

No. 23, LEMON SOLE, LEMON DAB, MERRY
SOLE, SMEAR DAB, etc.

Pleuronectes microcephalus, Donovan.

Usual extreme length : 16 inches.

Description: Body regularly oval in outline ; head and mouth of
small size; scales small, and extending- throughout the entire
surface of the body and head, and also to the marginal fins on
the upper side ; 85 to 93 rays in the dorsal fin, 70 to 76 in the
anal. Coloration above, warm yellowish brown with darker
marblings, pure white below.

The Lemon Sole spawns from April to September; its food
consists of small crustaceans and worms.

Range: From the North of Europe to the Bay of Biscay.

Remarks: The name "Lemon Sole" usually applied to this fish is
somewhat misleading, for being a Pleuronectes, the species bears a closer
affinity to the Plaice, Dab, Flounder, etc., than to the Soles proper,
which" are included in the genus Solea; the term, moreover, is applied
locally to another species, the ; ' Sand Sole" or 'French Sole" (S.
lascaris}.

The species is held in very high esteem, and is considered by many
to be a fair substitute for " Best Sole." In the market its value ranges
to nearly twice that of plaice, thus ranking next to that of Halibut.

m

No. 24. PLAICE.

Pleuronectes />/<// c.v.v<;, Linmeus.
Also Pleuronectes gluciiili?;. Pallas, from Northern waters.

Usual extreme length : jS inches, hut examples from Iceland
may exceed this length; the majority of those usually marketed
do not run above 15 inches.

Description: H\es situated on the right side of the body, a
bony ridge extending- across the upper margin of the gill-cover
and between the eyes ; number of fin rays similar to that of
the Dab, but the smooth scales and the comparatively straight
lateral line serve to distinguish the species from its smaller ally.
Coloration brown, or golden brown, with a number of red or
orange spots.

The Plaice spawns in the earlv part of the year; its food
consists of shellfish, marine worms, etc.

Range: From the North Coasts of Huropc and Iceland to the
Bay of Biscay.

Remarks: 1 .1 the market, three distinct categories uf size are recog-
nised in this important food-fish, viz. : 'Large'" (North Sea), 2lbs. to
3^1bs. or more, (Iceland) ,?lbs. to .ilbs. ; 'Medium," -|lb. to 2lbs. ;
" Small," under -|lb. The value of these three classes differs materially.
that of the medium being the highest. Small Plaice are often marketed
as ' : Flounders.'' By far the greatest quantity of Plaice landed in this
country comes from the North Sea, but a large supply is also derived
from the White Sea, and Iceland: the Barents Sea also proves, at
times, a profitable fishing ground.

The Plaice is essentially a fish for frying, either whole or in fillets,
when of small or medium size. The smaller fish are excellent when
prepared in spirer' vinesar.

2-4

No. 25. FLOUNDER, FLUKE.

Pleuronectes flcxnx, Linnaus.
Usual extreme length: |S inches.

Description: Somewhat similar in general appearance to the
Plaice, but easily distinguishable by the following- cha-
racteristics, viz : The occurrence of a row of rough spiny
processes (modified scales) at the base of the dorsal
and anal fins, and around the front end of the lateral
line; and the absence of tubercles on the ridge between
the eyes. The former of these characteristics are more
strongly developed in fish from the Baltic, and often lacking in
others from the Mediterranean. The Flounder, moreover,
possesses fewer fin rays than any other member of the same
group, there being sixty to sixty-two in the dorsal, and thirtv-
nine to lorty-five in the anal, a fact that appears to render the
caudal fin more distinctly separated from the rest of the bodv
than it is in the Plaice. The coloration above is very dark
brown, almost black, with indistinct markings, the lower surface
pure white. The eyes are usually situated on the right side,
but examples in which this order is reversed are not uncommon
(see figure).

The Flounder spawns from February to June.

Rang-: -From the Norwegian coast and the Baltic to the
Mediterranean. The species affects brackish, or even fresh
water, being found largely in estuaries easily accessible from
the sea.

Remarks: In the market, young Plaice are often described as
Flounders. Despite the fact that the value is considerably less, the
present species is preferred by many people to Plaice. It should be
noted that the Flounder of this country is an entirely different fish from
the American species, which is held in such high esteem in the United
States.

2 5

No. 26. DAB, SAND DAB.

Pleuronectes liuniiiilii, Linmcus.

Usual extreme length: i~ inrhrs or slightly o\ er.

Description: Recognisable Ironi any other member of ihc right-
sided group ol ll;it fishes by tin- upward rounded curve of the
lateral line above the pectoral iin. The skin is rough, this being-
due to the spines on the scales. I he coloration is light brown,
with small dark spots, which latter may only t.e seen during- life.

The Dab spawns from February to July; its food consists
largely of crustaceans.

Range: From the Xorth of \oi\\ay to the Bay of Biscay; the
species is abundant everywhere around the coasts of Britain.

Remarks: Comparatively fe-v large Dabs are to be met with in the
ordinary way at the fishmonger's, but examples of small or moderate
size are generally to be found among the stork of I'Liice. In flavour
and quality the present species is very similar to the: Pole Dab and
Flounder.

No. 27. WITCH, POLE DAB, POLE

FLOUNDER.

PZettronectes cynoglossus, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length: About Jh inches.

Description: More slender in build than the Lemon Sole; head
and mouth of small size; dorsal fin commencing behind the eye;
lateral line almost straight; fin rays numerous, 102 to 115 in
the dorsal, and 86 to 97 in the anal ; scales slightly
rough on the upper surface of the boclv, smooth below.
The coloration above is pale brown, impure white below.

The Witch spawns from May to September.

Range: From the North of Kurope to the Bay of Biscay, and
from Greenland to Cape Cod. The species is not common in
the English Channel, but lairly abundant in the North Sea and
elsewhere around Britain.

Remarks: The Witch bears a certain superficial resemblance to the
Lemon Sole, to which species both in flavour and quality it is certainly
inferior. Its market value slightly exceeds that of plaice, but as a food
fish it approximates more nearly to Megrim than to any other member of
the present group.

No. 28. MEGRIM, SAILFLUKE, WHIFF

Lepidorhombus >iii'^<ist<>iini , Donovan.
Usual extreme length : . \hont 20 inches.

Description: Eyes on the lelt side, head and mouth ot large
size, the body itself narrow and thin. Dorsal fin commencing
in advance of the upper eye; lateral line exhibiting a sharp
upward curve above the pectoral fin. The scales, which are
large and spinous, are easily detached ; in an allied species, the
Scald-Back, the slightest handling denudes the body of both
scales and skin. The coloration, in examples of small or
moderate size, is pale brownish yellow without distinct mark-
ings; in large specimens there are sometimes present indistinct
patches of darker mottling-.

Thr Megrim spawns from February to May; its food consists
largely of small fish and crustaceans.

Range: Essentially a deep-water fish, the Megrim occurs from
the North of Norway and Iceland to the Bay of Biscay. It is
not common in the North Sea, but abundant on the West of
Scotland and the South of Ireland.

Remarks: The quantity of Megiir.i landed in Britain of recent 3- cars
has shown a steady increase, the species being one of those less well-
known flatfishes which are gradually gaining in popular esteem. The
species is sometimes described by that somewhat expansive designation,
" Lemon Sole," but although of very fair edible quality, it cannot com-
pare either in quality or market value with the fish legitimately
described by that name.

The somewhat curious synonvm. ; ' Sailfluke,"' has been given to the
species on account of the popular belief that the fish scuds on the surface
of the sea in the presence of a high wind, erecting its tail to act as a
sail.

No. 29. HERRING.

Clnpcu Inii-oi^iis , Linna-us.

Usual extreme length : -Slightly above 1.2 inches, but examples
have been recorded measuring- 17 inches.

Description: Dorsal fin commencing midway between the end
of the snout and the base of the tail; ventral fins rooted on a
line a little behind the commencement of the dorsal; scales of
moderate size, easily detached. Coloration blue green above,
the sides brilliantly iridescent.

The food of the herring consists of the free-moving organisms
of the sea (Plankton). Several distinct races of this important
fish are now recognised, which differ in their habits more particu-

^ i

larly as regards the time and place of spawning, those which
deposit their eggs in winter frequenting brackish waters, whilst
the summer-spawning fish are less coastal during the breeding-
season. Both varieties, however, frequent the upper strata of
the sea, and undertake inshore migrations prior to and during
the process of reproduction.

Range: From the White Sea to the Bay of Biscay. So far
as the British Isles are concerned, the heaviest landings are
those of autumn herrings at Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and
North Shields. At the two former ports, the larger quantities
are marketed from July to December, whereas at the last-named
place, together with Blyth and Hartlepool, the heavier landings
occur somewhat earlier in the year, and diminish rapidly before
the end of November. The majority of herring marketed in
ihis country arc caught by means of drift nets, but a profitable
fishery is also prosecuted, by means of the trawl, upon fish
situated fircsnnuibh' in their permanent quarters on the sea-bed.

Remarks: It is a remarkable fact that less than one quarter of the
Herrings landed in this country are for home consumption ; the remainder,
in some form or another, are exported to various foreign countries.

It is to be regretted that many Continental methods of converting this
inexpensive fi-h into special forms of delicacy are practicall}' neglected
in this country. The species, however, when salted or smoked, and
retailed as "Kippers," "Ham-cured" or "Red Herrings," and
' Bloaters,'' forms the subject of the largest dried fish trade in these
islands. In its young stages, the Herring, from an economic stand-
point, is very closely connected with the Sprat, and often forms a very
large component of a sample of Whitebait, a collective term used to
designate a gathering of the voung of certain kinds of fish, and which
may sometimes include such widely different species as Sand-Eels.
Pipefish. Ciobies, and Scad.

No. 30. PILCHARD, SARDINE.

pilchardus, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : i^ inches, but the majority do not exceed
10 inches.

Description: Dorsal fin situated nearer to the snout than the
base of the tail, ventral tins rooted on a line behind the com-
mencement of the dorsal ; scales of large size ; edge of the belly
rounded, the spines occurring on it weak ; radiating- lines
beneath the eye and on the gill-cover. Coloration dark olive-
green above, silvery on the sides, but not so brilliantly iridescent
as in the Herring. The young often have a row of indistinct
black spots on the flanks.

The Pilchard spawns from June to October; its food is similar
to that of the Herring-.

Range: A pelagic and migratory fish, the Pilchard ranges
from the South coast of these islands to Madeira and throughout
the Mediterranean. The most productive fishery is generally
prosecuted off the coast of Cornwall, but of recent years the
species has shown a marked tendency to extend its migrations
farther to the east.

Remarks: Although the Pilchard in the fresh state may not be regarded
as an important food fish in this country, it is a species of considerable
economic importance in forming ihe subject of an extensive drift fishery in
the West of England. The product is, for the greater part, salted for
export to certain southern countries, notably Italy, where the Pilchard
enjoys the same popularity as does the Herring similarly cured in this
country.

A more important use for the fish in its younger stages has existed
for many years past in France and Portugal, where the ("inning
industry, i.e., the manufacture of Sardines in Oil, absorbs the greater
part of the supply. So far as this country is concerned, the salt curing
process is the most important, but, nevertheless, " ('ornish Sardines,"
"Pilchards in Oil," and " Pilchards in Tomato Sauce'' obtain a small
market.

Outside Devon and Cornwall the species is seldom nr.irketrd in a fresh
state, owing to the fact of its rapid deterioration in transport, but
residents in the West make extensive use of the fish, a favourite method
nf preparation for the table being by ' sousing " or pickling in spiced
vinegar.

No. 31. SPRAT.

Clupca sf'-n.iHus, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : 6i inches, the majority not exceeding- 5
inches.

Description: Dorsal fill commencing a little behind the point
midway between the end of the snout and the root of the tail,
the bases of the ventrals being- slightly in advance of the front
of the dorsal. Edge of the belly sharply keeled and spinous,
presenting an appearance like the cutting edge of a fine saw.
No radiating- lines on the gill-covers as in the Pilchard. Colora-
tion above not so distinctly blue-green as in the Herring, but
the sides equally brilliant.

The spawning period is prolonged, extending over the first
six months of the year according to the locality. The food
consists of the minute moving- organisms of the sea (Plankton).

Range: From the North of Kurope to the Mediterranean.
The Sprat is a migratory fish, spawning- at some distance from
land, and returning to brackish water some time afterwards.
The young, known as " Britt," are met with in large numbers
in estuaries, where they form a large component of the catch
of Whitebait. (See also under Herring).

Remarks: The, Sprat is essentially a longshoreman's fish, vast
numbers being taken in shallow water in seines, stow-nets, and drift-
nets of small mesh during the season, which so far as the London markets
are concerned, extends from October to the end of January. Tht:
Thames estuary supports a most profitable fisher}- from the standpoint
of productiveness, but in common with other fishes which occasionally
form a glut in the market, the Sprat is of very slight value commercially.

It is a fish well adapted for manufacturing purposes; " smoked sprats,"
retailed at a modest price per bundle, are preferred by many to the fresh
fish. The so-called " Norwegian Sardines," however, are, perhaps, the
best instance of the conversion of this abundant and low priced fish into
a useful commodity of diet.

No. 32. MACKEREL.

Scomber scomber, Linnaeus.

Usual extreme length : 20 inches, but the majority seldom attain
more than 1 4 inches.

Description : Body torpedo-shape ; two separate dorsal fins of
moderate size, the second, together with the anal, followed by
a series of five or six small finlets; caudal I'm deeply cleft, a
small keel occurring on either side of its base. Coloration green
or blue green above, shading rapidly away to silvery white with
iridescent reflections ; a number of vertical irregularly wavy
bars of black across the back.

The Mackerel spawns from May onward ; its food consists
of the minute moving organisms of the sea (Plankton), larger
free swimming crustaceans, etc., and young fishes.

Range: From the South of Scandinavia to Madeira and
throughout the Mediterranean. In English waters the species
occurs abundantly in the Channel, and up to the Norfolk coast.
The Mackerel is a migratory fish, feeding at the surface during
the summer months, and retiring to greater depths on the
approach of winter.

Remarks: -The summer drift fishery and the winter trawl fishery
are subject to considerable fluctuation, but the Mackerel may, neverthe-
less, be regarded as one of our most important food fishes. The flesh
is liable to somewhat rapid deterioration, especially at the height of
the summer season, and few people living in inland towns are able to
appreciate the excellent dualities of the freshly-caught fish.

The Mackerel lends itself well to a variety of methods of table -pre-
paration, equally good results being obtained by baking, gridding, frying
in fillets, or boiling. Marinated or pickled Mackerel, especially if
vhite wine vinegar be used in preparation, forms an excellent dish.

Despite its near affinity to the Tunny, the Mackerel does not appear
to lend itself so well to the process of canning as do certain other pelagic
fishes, but a small industry of this character exists in this country:
during the slack season, moreover, the French Sardine manufacturers
pack a fair number of small fish in oil. In a salted or otherwise cured
condition the Mackerel forms the subject of a fairly extensive export
trade, about 100,000 cwts. having of late years been sent annually to the
United States of America. Of recent years smoked Mickerel have
gained .1 fair market in these islands.

3 2

No. 33. SMELT, CUCUMBER SMELT,

SPARLING.

Osiucnis epcrlunns, Linna-us.
Usual extreme length: 12 inches.

Description: Body somewhat attenuated, tapering- gently to a
deeply forked caudal fin. Mouth of fair size, armed with large
teeth, the gape extending to the hinder edge of the eye. Two
dorsal fins, the second of small size and adipose. Coloration
above, varying- from pale sea-green to very light brown, the
sides brilliantly iridescent with roseate reflections.

The Smelt spawns in March, April, and May, in situations
where the water is fresh or very nearly so; its food consists
chiefly of small fishes and crustaceans.

Range: An essentially cstuarine fish occurring at the mouths
of rivers in Northern Europe and America. In certain places
the species occurs in land-locked water, but examples found in
such situations do not attain to the size of those of normal
habitat.

Remarks: The Smelt proper is a salmonoid fish, and an entirely
distinct species from the Atherine, which in many places is netted in
some quantity and marketed under the name of " Sand Smelt." Strictly
speaking, therefore, it should net be included in the category of Sea Fish.
The freshly caught fish emit a pleasing smell, which has not inaptly been
likened to that of cucumber. The flavour and quality generally are
excellent, fried Smelts possessing a characteristic flavour unlike that of
any other fish. An excellent, though comparatively unknown, method of
cooking this fish consists in solitting them open, and after preparing
in egg and bread-crumbs as in the case of Soles, frying in fat.

No. 34. DOG FISH.

Smooth Hound, Mnstclns vul^aris, \Yillughby.

Nurse, Scylliuni cutitlus, Linnaeus.

Huss, Scylliiini Ciiiiicidus . Linnaeus.

Spur Dog, I cdiitliitis vulgaris, Risso (see figure).

Usual extreme length : The first of the above species, the
Smooth Hound, attains a length of about 6 feet ; the second,
the Nurse Hound, 5 feet; whilst the other two, the Huss, or
Lesser Spotted Dog, and the Spur Dog, seldom exceed 3^ feet.

Description: The term "Dog-fish" is used in the market to
designate several minor members of the Shark family. All
the species agree in the following characteristics, amongst
others : Skeleton cartilaginous ; body invested with a tough
skin, which is often rough and always devoid of scales ; lobes
of the tail unequal, the vertebral column passing into the upper ;
the mouth, situated on the under surface of the body, is plenti-
fully provided with formidable teeth ; instead of the single gill
opening situated on either side of the head, as in the bony fishes
hitherto described, there are several gill-slits of small size.

The Smooth Hound, as its name implies, is lacking in the
spinous surface to the skin ; its coloration is blue grey, lighter
below, and with or without spots.

The Nurse is brownish or reddish grey in colour, with large
spots and blotches of a darker tint. In this species the anal
fin ends in a line under the middle of the second dorsal.

The Huss is somewhat similar in appearance to the Xurse, but
may be distinguished by the fact that the anal fin ends under
the space between the two dorsals.

The Spur Dog which is known also amongst the fishermen as
" Sweet William," may be distinguished from any of the
preceding by the presence of a spine in the front of each dorsal
fin, and by the absence of an anal fin.

Remarks: Within the past eight years the quantity nf Dogfish
marketed in this country has more than trebled, and the value has shown
a steady increase. This is Largely due to the fact that, with the decreased
landines of the better classes of fish, there is a greater demand amongst
the frying trade for those essentiallv wholesome fishes which but a iV\v
years ago were practically unsaleable, largely <as the outcome of popular

34

prejudice. There can be little doubt that Dogfish, or '' Flake," as it
is often called, can be rendered quite palatable, if care is exercised in
cooking, and it is much to be regretted that the market is still so small.
A good method of cookery consists in frying in fillets.

The Dogfish, especially the commonest species (Spur Dog), constitutes
at times a serious menace to certain drift fisheries by the damage it
causes to the nets and enmeshed fish, and it is therefore highly desirable
that its market value should advance to such a standard that a regu'ar
fishery could be prosecuted.

The various species are either viviparous, or bring forth the ova
enclosed in hi/rny pouches, the so-called "Mermaids' Purses " facts
which serve to maintain a plentiful supply of these comparatively
undesirable fishes.

No. 35. SKATES and RAYS.

Several species of the Genus Raia.

Usual extreme length : The Common Skate (see figure), kno\vn
also as " Kokcr," attains a length of 7 feet or more, hut tin-
majority of the other species are considerably smaller.

Description :- \\\ the Skates and Rays agree in having- the body
compressed from above and below, the eyes thus maintaining a
normal position on the upper surface of the body. In this

35

respect they differ from the Flat fishes, in which the body is
laterally compressed. The peculiarly broad form of the body
itself is due to the enormous development of the breast fins, tin-
tail being" correspondingly reduced, and forming" an attenuated
appendage upon which the two dorsal fins are placed. I he
breast fins extend nearly to the tip of the snout, passing over
the gill-slits, which are situated on the lower surface of the bod\
and below the mouth. Where scales are present, they take the
form of more or less strongly developed spines, which in some
species are confined to certain portions of the upper surface of
the "wings," as the breast fins are termed. The skeleton, as
in the case of the Dogfish, is cartilaginous. The coloration of
the various species is generally admirably in keeping with the
mode of life of these fishes, approximating in tone very nearly
to that of the sea-bed.

As in the. case of certain of the Dogfish, the members of this
group produce their egg's each enclosed in a horny envelope
(Mermaids' Purses). Their food consists chiefly of crustaceans
and molluscs, which are secured by the fish swimming directlv
over its prey, covering it with its body, and then by a special
movement convein it to its mouth.

Range: The several species are more or less common in
distribution around these islands, certain occurring more
abundantly in the North, others being practically confined to
the Southern area.

Remarks: The greatest supply of Skates and Rays comes frum the
Western area of the English Channel and the adjacent waters. The
market value is not considerable, but the skate is held in some esteem,
especially amongst the poorer classts. The somewhat glutinous nature
nt the flesh, a characteristic which is heightened by the presence of
cartilaginous bones, appears to require a cultivated taste for its full
appreciation. Skate is often prepared for the table by boiling, but
frying is perhaps preferable.

In the market, the entire fish is seldom seen, the portions retailed being
the "wings." which have been previously skinned.

r